I recently discovered a secret Greece has been hiding from the world. It’s called Meteora. The town is a hidden gem, a few hours from Athens. Fully prepared to be swept off my feet by the island of Santorini, I fell in love instead with this magical place, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My dad was turning 70 in September. I don’t know about you, but that felt like a big deal birthday to me. I could buy him yet another full sleeved shirt, or … [Read more...]
Here Be Dragons: The “Sacred Terror” of the Alps of Switzerland
"Placed on this planet since yesterday, and only for a day, we can only hope to glimpse the knowledge that we will probably never attain." -Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, 1796 Dateline: Mount Pilates, Switzerland I've penned a few books that have been placed in the category of "wilderness travel." But perhaps the first to stock this shelf was the eighteenth-century mountaineer Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who wrote in his opus, Voyages … [Read more...]
In a galaxy not so far away… Ireland feels ‘The Force’
Dublin, Ireland 12.18.2015 An island off Ireland's south west coast is wowing audiences at screenings of Star Wars: The Force Awakens. Unveiled in the film's closing minutes, this closely guarded secret ending to Episode 7 was filmed in September 2014 on Skellig Michael Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1977, the record-breaking movie franchise has travelled through many galaxies, and this time, director JJ Abrams along with … [Read more...]
Travels in Myanmar, with Buddha Behind the Wheel
If the Buddha was driving in heavy urban traffic, would he honk? Much as that sounds like some wisecracking riddle, it’s a thought that occurred to me while my taxi’s driver was navigating the maelstrom of traffic in Yangon, Myanmar. Yangon has over five million people, and at times during my days in the city, it seemed that most of them were behind the wheel. Yet, though traffic surged, darted and inched, drivers seemed patient, and honks—if you … [Read more...]
The New Year is Coming: Favorite Destinations for Travel in 2015
With 2015 fast approaching (seems like I just wrote this in regards to the start of this year!), there are a few places I would like to highlight as being high on my list of places to visit in 2015. I chose these in particular because of the range of experiences offered, inspiring natural beauty and diversity of foods or cultural activities. I have been fortunate to have visited each of these more than once. I love the freedom of independent … [Read more...]
Rila Monastery – November 2014
Rila Monastary is located about 2 hours outside of Sofia, the capital city. You can hire a taxi (be sure to bargain - and note that hiring taxis from public transportation places such as bus or train stations are usually higher in price), take a bus or go with a number of Bulgarian based tour companies that visit the monastery (Traventuria, Tandem Travel, Bulgaria-Guide). The road past the small village of Rila is narrow and winds up a river … [Read more...]
A Quick Stopover in Kiev, Ukraine
These days, with WiFi commonly available while on the go, Independent travel has certainly become "easier". After arriving at the massive central train station in Kiev, I simply typed the words "hotel" and "hostel" in Google maps and immediately a number of properties popped up within walking distance. This can take a bit of "adventure" out of raw Independent travel - simply removing all human contact. I didn't need to try and talk to anyone for … [Read more...]
Vulgar Wheat: A Trace of Thrace Bugaria
John M. Edwards chows down on subpar "Vulgarian" grub and survives a dangerous dispute over a restaurant bill in the Balkans. Oh well, there is always the region's lip-smacking yogurt. . . . Bulgaria has by far the best yogurt in the world, partly because they invented it. They also are (supposedly) responsible for the regional cuisine shared by many of its neighbors: Bulgar wheat, stuffed grape leaves, baklava, kebabs, goat cheese, and … [Read more...]
BASQUE CASE: Separation Anxiety in the Pyrenees
“Before God was God and boulders were boulders, Basques were already Basques.” --Basque proverb A merry little trip to the Basque Country, an autonomous utopia containing a bit of both France and Spain is like trying to find the original site of the Garden of Eden, which Basques claim might be hidden in their unrecognized “country”: Euskadi! Inching along in your rented Renault time machine on the high mountain passes through the … [Read more...]
10 Foods You Have to Try in Kyoto
Japanese cuisine has a rich and storied history based as much upon the unique culture of the region and nation as it is upon its native foods. For any traveller looking to experience the heart and soul of Japan, the mouth and stomach are an ideal place to start, especially in the city of Kyoto. If you’re looking to travel to and book accommodations in Kyoto, do so with each of your meals in mind, as the foods, dishes and styles of eating in … [Read more...]