Paso Robles, you know it: that quaint, semi-rustic town you stop at for a bite and a glass of wine on your drives between LA and San Francisco. Well, in between drives, Paso Robles has grown up, and in the best of ways. These days, Paso is more of a first (though less expensive) cousin of Napa’s St. Helena—you’ll definitely want a second glass of wine.
And you’ll want to stay a spell. The town retains its California Western feel, but now there’s more Saturday night polished cowboy boots than the dusty ones around the corral. The Paso Robles Inn, where I spent a couple of recent restful nights, is a sterling example of what we’re discussing: a place with great bones, but one that’s been working out. The Inn is Paso’s oldest hotel, dating to 1889, and suffered a ravaging fire in 1940. Multiple renovations later, including one just completed, show the accomplished magic of retaining a landmark legacy and adding modern amenities, like EV plug-ins and optional smartphone-based digital keys.
If you long for the glow of old-school with shine, check out the rooms in the 1889 House, the only remaining building from the original property. It has a roomy, dignified ballroom (with original wood moldings and accents) for weddings, music, entertaining and corporate events, and warm traditional touches in the 12 rooms. The other cluster of lodging buildings surround a beautiful inner courtyard with a burbling creek and heritage oaks that are wrapped with tiny lights, wondrously illuminated at night.
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
We dined out on the terrace, soon available for group booking, in front of The Steakhouse, with warm fall breezes dancing about, and great specials like a mac-n-cheese croquette with truffles and a halibut filet in an avocado risotto. As chef Joe Montgomery explained, the Inn procures foods and wines locally—the area’s “Born In” program sources producers of all manner of goods, which rewards both the palate and the tote bag home. And if you are in the mood for more modish amenities in a contemporary setting, step over to the Inn’s adjacent sister hotel, the Piccolo, with its 4pm Wine Hour. Don’t miss Tetto, the rooftop bar, which has an eye-popping view of the surrounding hills, and a dandy drinks menu.
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
Strolling downtown is where you might feel that mentioned St. Helena vibe, with its panoply of boutique shops (great eclectic chocolate bar selection at The General Store), art studios, both chic and down-home restaurants, and a general welcoming mood. There’s a nice park (also with light-draped oaks) just across from the Inn, and it opens to downtown in several directions, to walk and gawk.
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
And of course, there are many places downtown to taste wine. But, if you want some more wine with your wine, the number (200+) of local wineries and tasting rooms in and about those handsome hills just out of town is large: there are big names like Justin, Daou, J. Lohr, and Tobin James (fun and picturesque historic setting), but oh-so-many smaller vineyards producing grape glories of quality and appeal. Bring your designated driver; you’ll leave with your attitude optimally adjusted.
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
Do Traipse On Over to These Gems
Photo courtesy of Tom Bentley
Hambly Farms
You always want your hosts to smell good at any event. Milton and Gina Hambly of Hambly farms don’t have to worry about that, even though there are chickens, a pig and lots of friendly goats there. That’s because they have 26 acres of lavender bushes—and lavender is a winning scent for the ages. The Hamblys harvest their multiple varieties from field to distillation to bottle, all on the farm, which has a great tour, U-pick options and a store with all things lavender. The Hamblys don’t use chemicals or pesticides, and even the lavender stems become compost—nothing is wasted. When you come out to the farm, take a moment to close your eyes and breathe…
Photo courtesy of Tom Bentley
RE:FIND Distillery
Naturally, you can’t drink wine all the time, despite your efforts—spirits soothe the soul too. And there are spirited spirts aplenty at RE:FIND Distillery, including those of the genial hosts, Alex and Monica Villicana, accomplished winemakers as well. With the great character of collegiality and cooperation seen all over Paso Robles, they work with Firestone Walker Brewing to distill brown spirits from FWB’s beer base, and with local winemakers to distill clear spirits from otherwise discarded free-run juice from local grapes, an effort that promotes sustainability (and good booze). They are also one of the founding members of the 13-member Distillery Trail. Go to the tasting room, gape at the splendid copper distilling equipment, and sip away. (I couldn’t escape without buying a bottle of their fine rye.)
Photo courtesy of Alice Bourget
Sensorio
They aren’t just harvesting grapes in Paso Robles. Go to Sensorio, and bathe in a harvest of soothing lights. There are acres and acres of light-emitting spheres on stalks planted on the undulant hills, with pastel colors that seemed to roll and beam for great distances. (And that was just after nature’s own sunset there, itself shockingly vivid.) We were astonished by the beauty and hypnotic aspects of the various installations—the feeling was like a giant Monet painting outside the pulsing Vegas Sphere, a magic carpet ride of the mind. There are also several vintage Airstreams selling gifts, food, wine and cocktails—you can get lit while you get lit.
Don’t Ever Pass by Paso
Our two-day stay was too short, but I know I’ll be back—I didn’t get to visit a quarter of the places that are eminently visitable. Though I have been extolling the benefits of a bit of the grape, let’s dial down some: Don’t drink too much. Be safe out there in those beautiful rolling hills. That way, you and others will be able to enjoy more wine on your return. You’ll discover Paso is worth much more than a whistle-stop.
Leave a Reply