I spent my final two months of living in the city going on long walks and set a goal to explore every arrondissement. I’m going to leave a few recommendations of things to do, where to eat and places to visit to avoid the overpriced and overcrowded ‘hot spots’ and find out a bit more about the more underrated parts of what this city has to offer.
Areas/ Arrondissements
Paris is split up into 20 different areas called arrondissements. They work in a spiral shape, starting with the 1st arrondissement (where the louvre is) in the centre. My favourite arrondissements or areas in Paris lie a bit further from the city centre, but its so easy to get around in Paris on the metro, that it doesn’t really matter where you stay, its worth visiting a bit further out. There is so much to see in these parts too, plenty of sweet cafés, restaurants, and pretty streets; these are a few areas I’d recommend visiting:
Belleville, 20th Arr.
I stayed near here once the summer before I moved to the city, and this is where I think I’d like to live if I moved back to Paris. There are lots of busy bars, good restaurants and some cute shops. Take a wander around here and you’ll stumble across lots of picturesque streets and independent shops like Bokbar, a Scandinavian book store which also serves coffee and traditional treats. The local park, ‘Parc de Belleville’ has a good viewpoint over the city and is a nice place to catch sunset. The 11th arrondissement borders it which is another good area, or walk west to get to the canal in the 10th.
Rue Daguerre, 14th Arr.
This street is in a quieter part of the city, not too far from Montparnasse, and is named after the first camera invented. Agnes Varda, the film maker, used to live here and made a film set on this very street. It’s a funny little road and can sometimes feel a bit eerie – you definitely can feel that your further out of town, but I really like walking around this area, looking at all the architecture, and shop signs which sometimes seem very Wes Anderson. There’s an amazing Armenian bakery here called Juni, which has good vegan options and is perfect for a lunch stop, or later on in the evening have a drink at cLe Lock Groove. It’s not far from the Catacombes and the Giacometti institute is right around the corner which is also worth a visit, they have a library full of art and photography books which anyone can flick through.
Buttes-Aux-Cailles, 13th Arr.
A customer in the shop I was working at recommended I visit this area towards the end of my stay. I really loved it and took a few friends to visit. It’s in quite an unassuming location, not far from Place d’Italie, which is basically just a huge roundabout. There are a few pretty cafes and restaurants, some sweet antique shops and there is a relaxed atmosphere. I’ve heard people say its like a version of Montmartre, which I would agree with due to all the stickers, objects and mirrors stuck on the walls as well as murals and graffiti but it’s a lot quieter and more low-key. Also, if you’re in the 13th arrondissement, check out Paris’ China Town which is further south and get a Bahn Mi for 3 euros.
Food
Food is one of my top priorities when I go away. The worst thing is walking around looking for somewhere to eat for a couple of hours to then find out there’s a really nice restaurant round the corner from where you just ate a bang-average meal. France is famous for its cuisine, and its full of bistros on every street, with their sweet little canopies and uniform wicker chairs lined up facing the street but…. they’re not always the best place to find a good meal.
Bouillon Pigalle, 18th Arr.
This is a fast and budget friendly version of French cuisine. It’s a really good option if you’re in a group or they’re on Deliveroo and do takeaway as well. You can get a really speedy meal here, that is, if there is no queue. These Bouillon restaurants are a chain, and there are a few around the city, all with a mostly identical menu and style. I tried them all and the one located in Pigalle, right near Montmartre was my favourite, in the summer they open the terrace windows upstairs.
Miznon Marais, 4th Arr.
Moving away from French cuisine, this is one of my favourites. It’s best to share these delicious Israeli street food dishes, and don’t be scared to order a lot because you can take home what you don’t eat there. It’s fast, fresh and a crowd pleaser with bottomless pitta and dips which you help yourself to. There are now a few branches of this open in London too, so give it a try if you get the chance.
Happy Nouilles, 3rd Arr.
This became one of my go-tos when I was about in town, it’s in a really central location, and I always stopped by when friends were visiting for a speedy and delicious lunch or dinner. Sometimes there’s a queue but it always goes fast and its worth the short wait. Paris has lots of good spots for noodles and this is an easy favourite of mine.
Drink
It is always easy to find somewhere for a drink in Paris, and the culture around drinking is very different to the UK, in a nice way. Parisians sit on the brasserie terraces whatever the weather outside, with a glass of wine or a Suze spritz in the summer and it all seems a lot more civilised than some of the drunken chaotic scenes you’ll find in the UK! These were some of my best finds for a quick pint, or something a little fancier.
Folderol, 3rd Arr.
This little bar does wine and ice cream. Choose a bottle, or a recommended glass with a little silver dish of ice cream to accompany. This was one of my favourite spots for a drink with friends in the summer, you can sit or stand on the pavement outside when it gets crowded and then go for dinner at a nearby restaurant in the Marais. This place blew up on Tik Tok, and last time I visited there were little no filming signs. Put your phone aside and enjoy.
Le Syndicat, 10th Arr.
Really unassuming and lowkey on the outside, you might even walk past this one and miss it. This is a kind of speak-easy and does great cocktails. We were even offered a palette cleansing cocktail before we ordered, and the presentation was delicate and minimal.
Aux Rattrapages, 5th Arr.
One thing I did miss about the UK was the pub culture, and it was almost impossible to find somewhere for a cheap pint, with most priced around 9 euros or more in the centre. This bar is one of three right by the Sorbonne university, in the student area. Its busy, there’s a pool table, and a pint was 3 euros. What more could you ask for?!
Museums and Galleries
You can’t visit Paris and not stop off inside at least one gallery. Skip the arduous queues of the Louvre…. especially if it’s raining, and take a look at some modern art or maybe a photography exhibition. I was studying Art History whilst living in Paris, and therefore tried to visit as many galleries and museums as possible whilst I was there. Unlike the UK, a lot of gallery spaces and exhibitions are a bit pricier, though some do have a day where it’s free once a month, or where it’s cheaper on a certain evening which is worth looking into.
Palais de Tokyo, 16th Arr.
This was one of my favourite galleries in the city, they always have interesting and interactive modern art exhibitions. Its right opposite the Modern Art Museum too, so you can go and have a look at their permanent collection afterwards for free. The bookshop in here is what makes it for me. If you love magazines, or art and photography books, put this near the top of your list! They have a photo booth too in this part, take home some photo memories.
Musée de L’Orangerie, 1st Arr.
Don’t miss Monet’s waterlilies on the curved walls of the upstairs galleries in here. It’s so beautiful and peaceful to take a moment to sit down and look, maybe even bring a book. Try and get there in the morning or evening to miss the rush and don’t forget the more modern exhibitions they usually have on downstairs.
MEP, 4th Arr.
The Maison Européene de la Photographie, is tucked away on a quiet street and isn’t the most beautiful of galleries in Paris from the outside. This was where I saw some of my favourite exhibitions in Paris. Their program is quite international so you can discover photographers, either established or up and coming from across the world.
Visit
La Gare Le Gore, 19th Arr.
I can’t leave this out and I don’t think I will ever visit Paris again without going here. This venue used to be part of a train station I believe, and looks like an abandoned house from the outside. Now, its a Jazz bar, and it’s free too. Each month theres a new program which you can check out on their instagram page (@la_gare_le_gore). They play jazz every single night of the year 9-Midnight. The downstairs then becomes a club, if you’re there early you get a stamp for free.
Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
This flea market lies just outside the city and is open on the weekends. You can get there by taking the metro North to Porte Clignancourt, followed by a ten minute walk. There’s a mixture of market stalls, some are permanent or semi-permanent shops and others are more like a boot-sale, with random items lining the streets on the pavements. Pick up a souvenir to take home from here… who knows what you’ll find.
Jardin de Claude Monet, Giverny
The Claude Monet Gardens are 100% worth the short train journey out of the city. It takes around an hour on the train, and you can take a shuttle or hire a bike to cycle to the gardens. It’s beautiful, there are so many colourful plants and flowers, set in rural french countryside landscapes. Save this one for a sunny day when you need to escape the hot and sweaty city streets!
Thank you for reading! These are just a small amount of recommendations that I think are reliable for a really fun trip to Paris and to help you travel a bit further afield to explore more of the city. If you enjoyed this read, check out my substack: Swings and Roundabouts, here.
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