Baguio: The City of Mists

As our bus wound its way up the serpentine roads of Kennon Road, the transformation was gradual, yet unmistakable. The humid lowland air of the Philippines gave way to an increasingly cool mountain breeze, while the tropical vegetation slowly morphed into stands of towering pine trees. We were ascending to Baguio City, the Summer Capital of the Philippines, perched 5,200 feet above sea level in the Cordillera mountain range of northern Luzon.

The city earned its moniker during the American colonial period when government officials would retreat here to escape Manila’s sweltering heat. Today, Baguio continues to serve as a natural air-conditioner for both local and international tourists seeking respite from the tropical climate that blankets most of the archipelago. The temperature here rarely exceeds 26°C (79°F), even during the warmest months, making it feel more like a perpetual spring than the typical Philippine summer.

Our first morning in Baguio began with a phenomenon that gives the city another of its nicknames – the City of Mists. A dense fog had settled over the urban landscape, creating an ethereal atmosphere as we made our way to the public market. The market, a sprawling maze of stalls and corridors, showcased the agricultural bounty of the Cordillera region. Plump strawberries, vibrant flowers, and mountains of fresh vegetables lined the walkways, while the scent of freshly roasted Benguet coffee beans wafted through the air.

The Baguio City Public Market isn’t just a place for commerce; it’s a window into the culture of the Cordillera. Indigenous women from various mountain tribes, recognizable by their distinctive traditional garments, sold hand-woven textiles and crafts alongside modern vendors. The market’s diversity reflects Baguio’s unique position as a meeting point between the highland and lowland cultures of the Philippines.

After purchasing some strawberries and ube jam (a local delicacy made from purple yam), we headed to Burnham Park, the green heart of the city. Named after Daniel Burnham, the American architect who designed Baguio’s original layout in 1905, the park serves as the city’s primary recreational space. On the man-made lake, couples and families paddled swan-shaped boats, their laughter echoing across the water. The perfectly manicured gardens, another testament to Baguio’s temperate climate, provided a peaceful setting for morning tai chi practitioners and joggers circling the paths.

One cannot write about Baguio without mentioning Camp John Hay, a former American military rest and recreation facility that has been transformed into a luxury resort and recreation center. Walking through its grounds, the scent of pine needles heavy in the air, it’s easy to understand why the Americans chose this location. The pine trees, imported from the United States during the early 1900s, have flourished in Baguio’s climate, creating a landscape more reminiscent of New England than Southeast Asia.

The afternoon led us to one of Baguio’s most spiritually significant sites – the BenCab Museum. Founded by National Artist Benedicto Cabrera, the museum houses not only his masterpieces but also an impressive collection of indigenous Cordillera art and artifacts. The museum’s location on the outskirts of the city offers breathtaking views of the mountains and terraced gardens below, where organic vegetables and Arabica coffee are grown. The fusion of art, nature, and indigenous culture epitomizes Baguio’s identity as a creative city, recognized by UNESCO for its vibrant arts scene.

As evening approached, we made our way to Session Road, the main thoroughfare that serves as Baguio’s commercial and social hub. The street, named after the first session of the Philippine Commission held in Baguio in 1904, comes alive at night with an array of restaurants, cafes, and shops. The cool evening air was filled with the aromas of various cuisines – traditional Filipino dishes, Korean barbecue, and local interpretations of Western favorites.

We chose to dine at a restaurant specializing in Cordillera cuisine, where we sampled pinikpikan, a traditional Igorot chicken soup, and mountain rice served with etag, a local cured pork delicacy. The flavors were as unique as the culture they came from, offering a taste of highland traditions that have survived centuries of colonial influence and modernization.

Our second day began with a visit to the Tam-awan Village, an artist-initiated project that recreates a traditional Cordillera village. Original Ifugao and Kalinga houses were carefully transferred from their mountain locations and rebuilt here, creating an authentic glimpse into indigenous mountain life. Local artists work in open-air studios, while cultural performances regularly take place in the village’s central gathering space.

The afternoon brought us to the Philippine Military Academy, where we watched young cadets perform precision drills on the parade ground. The academy’s immaculate grounds and strict discipline provide a striking contrast to the artistic freedom found elsewhere in the city. Yet both institutions contribute to Baguio’s distinct character – a city that embraces both tradition and innovation.

As our journey neared its end, we visited the Mines View Park, once a vantage point for viewing Benguet’s gold and copper mines. Today, it offers panoramic views of the Cordillera mountains and has become a popular spot for tourists to don traditional Igorot garments for photos. While some might view this as cultural commodification, it also represents the complex way in which indigenous culture interfaces with modern tourism.

Our final stop was the Good Shepherd Convent, famous for its ube jam, peanut brittle, and other sweets made by the Religious of the Good Shepherd sisters. The proceeds support scholarships for indigenous youth, exemplifying how tourism can be channeled into meaningful social initiatives.

Baguio City is more than just a summer retreat; it’s a place where multiple narratives intersect – indigenous traditions, colonial history, modern art, and environmental concerns. The city faces significant challenges, including rapid urbanization and its impact on the environment. During peak tourist seasons, the population can swell from 350,000 to nearly a million, straining the city’s resources and infrastructure.

Yet despite these challenges, Baguio maintains its charm. The cool mountain air still carries the scent of pine, artists continue to find inspiration in its misty landscapes, and the indigenous cultures of the Cordillera remain vital and visible. As we descended back down to the lowlands, watching the pine trees give way once again to tropical vegetation, it was clear why generations of visitors have been drawn to this mountain city.

Baguio represents a unique confluence of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern urban life. It’s a city that reminds us how human settlements can adapt to and enhance their natural environment, creating spaces that nourish both body and spirit. As climate change threatens to alter the patterns of life in the Philippines, Baguio’s temperate climate and cultural richness make it not just a tourist destination, but a model for sustainable mountain city development in Southeast Asia.