Waiting until the last minute and short on some upcoming vacation time, I scored what I thought was a bargain, at a room located next to the beach on Ko Lan. This was the last budget option I saw listed through various booking sites. And only a few other resorts had rooms, all of which were extremely expensive. Satisfied, I pulled a Spy wine cooler out of the fridge, grabbed a book and hit the hammock for the next few hours. The next morning I received an email that my room had been cancelled due to being oversold. Wow. At least they notified me unlike the hotel I booked in Fort Lauderdale last year – showing up and they had my reservation but didn’t have any rooms for me; I ended up sleeping under some bushes that night after getting cut up scaling a sharp chain link fence.
Hitting the keyboard again, I found a single alternative budget option, a newly opened restaurant with accompanying camp sites with tents already provided. This place was basic at best but it was cheap and available considering the popularity of this island, especially on weekends.
From the Ekkamai Bus Terminal in Bangkok I boarded a van, slogging through the usual traffic getting out of town, perhaps a bit worse than normal considering it was Friday early afternoon. After a several hours we arrived on the outskirts of Pattaya where I was told to exit the van along a highway. I waived down a motorbike to take me the last 20 minutes, which costs nearly the same as the several hour van ride. Public ferries leave every hour or so from the pier or speedboats more regularly (also cost nearly as much as the van ride). I had read about the 15 minute ride often being extra bumpy due to the rough seas but my passage was smooth unlike last year in Colombia between Cartagena and the Rosario Islands, the worst speedboat ride of my life, with passengers almost thrown out of the boat many times and heavy waves crashing over everyone almost the entire trip.
After landing on the island at the Na Baan Pier I rented a motorbike and headed out to my camp. The island is so small that you won’t get lost for very long before familiarizing yourself with its layout. On the way I came across a very sad in the moment scene. A motorbike had just run over a cat and had fled, leaving the cat bleeding from its head and mouth while lying in the street twitching and its eyes rolling in the back of its head. A lady came running out to grab the cat with presumably her daughter uncontrollably sobbing. That scene stuck with me.
The tent was nice, with a bed, a blanket and fully wired with electrical outlets. The grounds were another story, strewn with garbage including a garbage can the stray dogs knocked over every night. Every morning, someone righted the can but neglected to pickup all the garbage. And the restaurant? Every night one of the staff said it would open the next night, but it never did.
Parts of this island showcase the worst of tourism including overcrowded beaches with beach chairs and umbrellas covering nearly the entire beach. We heard 15,000 to 20,000 people+ can visit the island in a single day during high season. But I knew that before visiting the island; it is too close to Bangkok and too easy to access from nearby Pattaya which has grown significantly in both a vertical direction and along the waterfront since I first visited 25 years ago. Favorite beach on the island? Ta Yai. Least favorite? Tawaen.
I read halfway through and the name of the island rang a bell. It sounded too familiar. I wondered if it was Coral Island, I googled it, and yep, it is. I was in Pattaya in December, but I didn’t make it to the island. I was at the pier, looking at a ridiculously long line of vacationers waiting to board the boats bobbing at the pier, with all kinds of rubbish you could imagine.
Thank you Teh – yes. Unfortunately it’s too close to Pattaya and Bangkok and has become far too crowded:(